It is hard to describe the surreal beauty of a desert. My preconceived notions of a desert landscape are dominated by the word barren. That word is not used to describe Wadi Rum. Other worldly? Awe inspiring? Majestic? Gorgeous? All those words work.
We started off our time in Rum riding the dunes in the backs of 4×4’s. What fun! There is something childlike and carefree about flying across a desert and down red sands dunes in the back of a truck. We had stops along the way to climb the dunes and look at ancient drawings on the rock depicting life past. We explored canyons and learned about its famous resident, Lawrence of Arabia.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
At the canyon, we had a short stop for tea with the Bedouins. They live here, they run the activities. This is home to so many of them. What a glorious place to call home.
We did quite a bit of our travel advisor duties and checked out many of the camps in the desert. Beautiful tented camps. All have full dining options, incredible comfort in their accommodations, and entertainment. Many have special spots for candlelit dinners, if so inclined. Some even have swimming pools. Swimming in the desert. Huh.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
Our destination for the evening was Sun City Camp for their location, “martian” tents, and the best food. The photo above shows you the tents. With all of the open side of the tent (yes, there are curtains to draw if desired) facing the east, it was a magnificent place for star gazing. My surprise was opening my eyes really early in the morning to the most glorious sunrise. Making coffee, I crept out on the deck and had a wonderful hour or so in the peace of the desert just watching the sun rise and completely change the color and shadows of the landscape. With no wifi or cell reception, it was the first time in a very long time I really understood the concept and purpose of being off the grid.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
Speaking of star gazing, Wadi Rum is well known for their night skies and for good reason. With absolutely no ambient light, the skies eventually completely fill with these celestial bodies. Words can not fully describe how beautiful it is to watch as more and more stars fill the sky. Friends and I sat on our deck with a bottle of wine (brought by us as none is to be found in this Bedouin part of Jordan) and just peacefully watch something we knew was very special.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
Leaving Wadi Rum the next morning we all felt full and refresh and rejuvenated. We did all agree on one thing, however, our time there was too short. There is so much to see and explore in Rum, I definitely recommend an absolute minimum of two nights here. Next time, I will spend time at the observatory and see more stars. And I will spend a whole day out duning. And I will definitely enjoy being off the grid just a little while longer.
On the way to the Dead Sea, there is one of a most magnificent places I have ever been to, Wadi Mujib. It is the lowest reserve in the entire world. There are many places to explore but most people go for the experience of water hiking in the canyon, as we did.
You start at a visitor center where you don life vests and water shoes, both required. From there, you start your trek to the canyon. Going down the very long ladder to the canyon floor, you begin to realize you are on an adventure. The magic of Wadi Mujib is that you really have no clue what an adventure there will be.
You start your water hike in ankle deep water with full sunlight overhead. The canyon walls you see ahead are tall and multi-colored, similar to the one at Petra. Very quickly, the canyon walls get closer and closer until the sunlight really begins to dim. The water begins to rise and the adventure truly begins.
Where the current of the river gets strong or the water gets deep, there are ropes to pull yourself along. The canyon is multi-level so there are foot rungs and arms ropes to pull yourself from one level up to the next. It is strenuous and can be tricky. Along the way, there are waterfalls and gorgeous walls with shafts of light streaming down. There are boulders to climb on and over, water to swim or walk through, and a peaceful natural beauty I have never seen anywhere.
Our group was a bit older, ranging from 40’s to 60’s. For some, this was an endurance test, for others a personal test of courage and will. Wadi Mujib is not for the faint of heart. At the end of the trail is a gorgeous big waterfall. Some of us made it, some of us did not. I made it to the very last level before the big waterfall, never truly finishing the trail. I knew my limits and knew it was time to stop. I don’t regret it. It was the right decision for my safety. For some, that waterfall at the end was such validation. Not of their abilities but of their courage and endurance. Their radiant faces were proof.
The way back is all downhill and downstream. The waterfalls form natural slides and there was so much joy as we rode them down and dropped into pools below. There were times of just floating, looking up at the slivers of daylight seeping in the top of the canyons.
Whether we finished or not, all of us were so joyful to have had the opportunity to experience such an incredible and rare place.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
The Dead Sea is the stuff of stories and lore. We have all heard of it, no matter where you may live in the world. The Dead Sea is the lowest place on earth, except the oceans, at more than 1,400 feet below sea level. It is one of the saltiest bodies of water – ten times saltier than the oceans. Which makes it impossible for any plants and animals to survive in its waters.
We went for the rest and relaxation after a very busy week of work and exploration.
What better way to start than just dip right in? I was with friends who had been to the Dead Sea before, on the Isreali side. They gave me all the forewarnings – don’t let it get in your eyes, don’t try to swim, and you will feel any little cuts and scratches that you never knew you had. If it does get in your eyes, don’t panic. Just flush it quickly with fresh water. Don’t be down there between noon and 4pm due to the heat. And always rinse your hair immediately afterward if you don’t want a hot mess on top of your head. Did I really even want to do down and try it out after all that?
My answer is a resounding YES! Bobbing in the Dead Sea is like nothing I have ever experienced. It was truly magical. I floated and had moments of quiet and some laughter with my friends. It slows you down and puts you in the moment. It just stops you for a while and holds you up at the same time.
And then there is the mud!
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
Our resort had lovely lifeguards at the shore who would cover you up in the most amazing mud from the Dead Sea. Literally cover you. Almost every inch. Then we were just wander around, all mud caked, and pose for funny photos, until we walked the “cat walk” (all made up by us, of course) back to the sea. Where we would bob for a bit longer until the mud was gone.
I have never felt so good and rejuvenated by doing almost nothing. Magical.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
Though we still had more hotel inspections and other things to do, we spent those two wonderful days filling in our spare time with more mud and bobbing and time at this beautiful infinity pool overlooking the Dead Sea. And drinking wine and eating wonderful food and meeting lots of people from the tourism industry in Jordan. What a wonderful end to this trip.
Photo Credit : Zeina Kassem
I am sorry to have to stop reliving these memories of Jordan as I have been writing this multi-part series on my travels there. I was sadder still to leave this magical kingdom. Jordan exceeded every expectation for my travels there. I took home the most wonderful memories but, more importantly, took home new friends in my heart. I know I have family and a home whenever I am in Jordan.
The good news is that I will return! And sooner than I would have thought. I am leading a small group there in March. If you are interested, check out the “Group Travel” section on this website. And I am making plans for another industry trip and hope for another small group trip in the fall. Jordan and I are becoming fast friends.
On one final note, some of you have told me that you noticed another name on most of the photo credits. We traveled with a professional photographer for the entire trip, someone whom we all came to adore. Zeina Kassem is an amazing photographer from Lebanon. She is also a beautiful person, inside and out. I am honored to call her my friend. And I thank her for letting me grace my blog posts with her beautiful photos.
© Beth Rowan https://www.tapestry-travel.com/blog/the-magical-kingdom-of-jordan-part-4
